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A 15th-century medieval tower, the Casa del Oso (Bear House), Molina the bear 5 km along the greenway and the hamlet of Bandujo: what to see in Proaza fills a whole day, with the village just 200 m from the greenway (km 14).
Points of interest
The essentials of Proaza are four: the Casa del Oso, the medieval Campo tower, the bear enclosure where Molina lives and the hamlet of Bandujo. The first three combine on foot or by bike from the village itself, which sits 200 m from the greenway at its km 14; for Bandujo you will need the car.
The Casa del Oso
It occupies the village's old rectory and since 1996 has been the headquarters of the Fundación Oso de Asturias, the region's bear foundation.
- Inside there is a permanent exhibition on the Cantabrian brown bear and an audiovisual room, and it is the logical stop before heading to the enclosure, because the Foundation itself manages visit times.
- You have the full information in our guide to the Bear House of Proaza.
The medieval Campo tower
On the way out of the village towards Trubia stands the Tower of Proaza, better known as the Campo tower: circular in plan, over 14 metres tall and 15th-century work, commissioned by Diego Vázquez de Prada.
- It has been listed as a Site of Cultural Interest since 1965 and is thought to have served as a manorial prison and a checkpoint controlling the valley.
- The interior is empty because it lost its wooden stairs and floors, so the visit is from outside: look for the arrow slits, the mullioned window and the Campo palace right across from it.
The bear enclosure and Molina the bear
At km 19 of the greenway, 5 km from the village, lies the Fernanchín enclosure: 40,000 m² of hillside where Molina lives, a rescued bear who arrived in 2013 and cannot return to the wild.
- The outdoor viewpoint beside the greenway is free and the chance of seeing her is around 70%, peaking in the cooler hours (9-11 am and 5-7 pm).
- For years this enclosure was home to the most famous bears in Asturias; we tell their story in Paca and Tola.
- If you bring a dog, it cannot enter the viewpoint: take turns, the visit lasts 15-20 minutes.
Bandujo, the municipality's medieval hamlet
Up in the mountains of Proaza, at around 700 m altitude, Bandujo is a Site of Cultural Interest in the Historic Ensemble category and one of the best-preserved medieval settlements in Asturias.
- Today it is home to around 40 residents, and the road did not arrive until the 1980s, which explains that state of preservation.
- The settlement grew from the 8th century around the church of Santa María; set aside half a day if you want to wander it at leisure.
What lies a stroll away along the greenway
From the village, the greenway puts several landmarks of the Ruta del Oso within strolling distance.
- Up the valley, the Peñas Juntas gorge is 2 km away; down the valley you string together Valdecerezales, the iron bridges, the Buyera area and the enclosure, and in Tuñón, with a 300 m detour, the pre-Romanesque church of Santo Adriano, from 891 AD.
- Peñas Juntas gorge — km 12 of the greenway, 2 km away (towards Entrago)
- Valdecerezales area — km 15, 1 km away (towards Tuñón)
- Iron bridges — km 16, 2 km away
- Buyera area (picnic tables and fountain) — km 18, 4 km away
- Fernanchín bear enclosure — km 19, 5 km away
- Santo Adriano de Tuñón (891 AD) — km 22, 300 m detour, 8 km away
If you only have a morning: park in Proaza before 10 am, walk the 5 flat km of greenway to the enclosure, give Molina's viewpoint 20 minutes and head back for a vermouth by the tower. About two and a half hours of walking in total, without a single climb.
How to get there
From Oviedo it is about 40 km (45 minutes): A-63 to exit 9 (Trubia) and the AS-228 up the valley, with Proaza right on the valley road. From Gijón allow 70 km (1 hour) and from León, 85 km (1 h 15 min) via the AP-66 and the Ventana pass.
Without a car, the Oviedo-San Martín de Teverga bus line stops in Tuñón, Proaza, Caranga and Entrago; the full journey takes around 55 minutes and timetables change by season, so check them with the Asturias Transport Consortium.
The train gets you no further than Trubia, at the mouth of the valley and 25 km from Entrago; from there, take the bus. And if you pedal, it is 34 km from Oviedo (2.5-3 hours) via the Parque de Invierno, the Fuso greenway and the Nora corridor.
For parking, the village has around 20 free spaces that fill up before 10 am in July, August and on long weekends. Plan B: Entrago (around 60 spaces) or Tuñón (around 40), also free and right on the greenway. You have the detail in the parking guide and in how to get to the Ruta del Oso.
Where to eat
Proaza is one of the valley's classic lunch stops: in the village and by the bridge there are cider houses and restaurants serving traditional Asturian cooking, such as La Senderuela, Traslavilla and Casa Clemente. With the village 200 m from the greenway, it is the natural place for a set lunch or the post-ride vermouth.
If you would rather eat on the go, the picnic tables at the Buyera area (km 18) have a fountain and a seasonal bar, and Proaza itself has another of the greenway's four fountains.
In summer and on long weekends it pays to book a table or eat early: the groups coming down from the greenway fill the dining rooms at midday. The full list section by section, with options in Teverga and Santo Adriano, is in where to eat on the Ruta del Oso.
How to combine it with the Ruta del Oso
The most rewarding combination is simple: greenway in the morning and village at midday. Proaza sits at km 14 of the greenway, which has an average gradient of 1.5% and a compacted gravel surface with no cars, so every plan comes out flat.
- On foot: the Proaza loop is 5 km and 1.5 hours; to the enclosure and back, 10 flat km. The short Buyera-enclosure walk (0.8 km, 20 minutes) works with all-terrain pushchairs. More walks in the greenway on foot.
- By bike: the classic Entrago-Buyera ride is 18 km of gentle descent (200 m in your favour), 2-3 hours with stops, setting off between 10 and 11 am. There is bike rental from €28 a day with helmet, insurance and the return transfer from Buyera.
- The section through Proaza: the Tuñón-Proaza guide is the best one for a first taste of the route.
If you are staying overnight, the beds are concentrated in Proaza, Teverga and Quirós, all within 10 minutes; in July and August book 3 weeks or more ahead (where to stay).
The best months are May-June and September, and in high summer it pays to start early: the greenway's tunnels run 4-5 degrees cooler than outside. To stretch it to two days, see the Ruta del Oso in a weekend.
Proaza FAQ
Three essentials: the Casa del Oso (Bear House), headquarters of the Fundación Oso de Asturias; the medieval Campo tower (15th century); and the bear enclosure where Molina lives, 5 km along the greenway. With more time, drive up to the medieval hamlet of Bandujo.
Yes. The outdoor viewpoint beside the greenway is free and the chance of seeing her is around 70%, peaking from 9 to 11 am and 5 to 7 pm, the cooler hours. Visit times are managed by the Fundación Oso de Asturias from the Casa del Oso.
About 45 minutes by car on the A-63 (exit 9, Trubia) and the AS-228 up the valley. By bus, the Oviedo-San Martín de Teverga line stops in Proaza; the full journey takes around 55 minutes and timetables change by season.
In the village's free car park, with around 20 spaces. In July, August and on long weekends it fills up before 10 am; the larger alternatives are Entrago (around 60 spaces) and Tuñón (around 40), also free and right on the greenway.
Yes. It is listed as a Site of Cultural Interest in the Historic Ensemble category, preserves one of the best-kept medieval ensembles in Asturias and is home to around 40 residents at 700 m altitude. You drive up on a mountain road.
Ruta del Oso